Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, Shizuoka

Where Tokugawa Ieyasu was first buried and the first of all Toshogu shrines: a vivid National Treasure on a hill above the sea, built 19 years before Nikko.

Stone stairs leading up to the red gate and halls of Kunozan Toshogu, flanked by stone lanterns — Photo: baggio4ever, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Stone steps climbing through trees toward a torii gate and red buildings at Kunozan Toshogu — Photo: baggio4ever, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The first Toshogu, where Ieyasu rests

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine stands at the top of Mount Kuno, which rises from the coast of Shizuoka City. It is dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, who laid the foundations of the peaceful Edo period.

Ieyasu died on 17 April 1616, aged 75. As his will instructed, he was buried here on Mount Kuno, and the second shogun, Hidetada, built the shrine buildings. A Toshogu is a shrine that worships Ieyasu as a deity. There are many across Japan, and this is where they all began.

A National Treasure 19 years older than Nikko

The main shrine is built in the gongen-zukuri style, covered entirely in lacquer and decorated with brightly coloured carvings and patterns. It was built 19 years before the famous Nikko Toshogu and was designated a National Treasure in 2010.

Behind the main shrine is the shinbyo, Ieyasu's tomb. The museum in the shrine grounds holds more than 2,000 items connected with Ieyasu and later shoguns.

1,159 stone steps, or the ropeway?

There are two ways up to the shrine. One is the main approach, climbing 1,159 stone steps from the stone torii (the gate that marks a shrine) at the foot of the mountain. The number is known through the wordplay ichi-ichi gokurosan, "thanks for your trouble every step of the way", since 1159 can be read as ichi-ichi-go-ku. From the Ichinomon gate, at around the 909th step, you get a wide view over Suruga Bay. Take the local bus from JR Shizuoka Station for about 50 minutes to Kunozan-shita, and the bottom of the steps is about 5 minutes' walk away.

The other route is the Nihondaira Ropeway from Nihondaira. The local bus from JR Shizuoka Station to Nihondaira takes about 40 minutes, then it is about 5 minutes on the ropeway. This way you can visit without climbing the steps.

Tips

If you are not confident on your feet, you can ride the ropeway up and walk down the steps to the bus stop at the foot of the mountain. Either way it is a long flight of steps, so wear comfortable shoes.
The "1159" wordplay is one example of Japanese number puns, where digits are read to make words. Counting the steps as you climb is part of the fun.
Admission fees, opening hours and whether the ropeway is running can change. Check the official website before you go.